My mother was a gifted cook. Without lessons, and within the limitations of being Kosher, she was nonetheless able to make magic in the kitchen. My memories of her cooking in the small row house in which I grew up were of her back. The kitchen was tiny. Sink at the rear of the room. Stove to the left. Refrigerator to the right. Her work space was the small area to the right of the sink.
I watched her back when I used the house phone, located on the wall in the eating alcove that adjoined the kitchen. I watched the plucking and dismemberment of chickens, the endless pots of soup being seasoned on the stove, the pans going into the oven and coming out. I remember having no interest in how she created whatever she did. One time, I asked if I could help. She laughed and said, “The best thing you can do is stay out of the kitchen.” It was an easy order to follow.
During my first year in college, my mother started her own home-based catering company. The basement became a kitchen. My mother hired two women to work with her. She catered weddings and Bar Mitzvahs. Although the food she created became more and more elaborate, my interest level in what she did remained the same. I continued to stay out of the kitchen.
Then, at age twenty-two, I had my own kitchen, a place to house the shiny new pots and pans and dishes and appliances bestowed upon me as a reward for becoming someone’s wife. Having lined my shelves, made curtains for the windows, and displayed my new cooking toys, I didn’t know how to proceed. I had to admit that in the genetic lottery of life, my mother’s cooking abilities had not been gifted to me.
Seven years later, my mother died. I kept the few cookbooks she had, although I already knew that she cooked without recipes. The cookbooks had been gifts given to her when she got married. I can’t imagine that she ever actually referred to them. Within their pages, I found several sheets of paper with “recipes” written on them. I could not have followed those random scribbles if my life depended on it. I need directions as precise as those used by people in laboratories.
Thirty-seven years passed. In that time, I managed to keep an ex-husband and three children alive with my cook-by-the-numbers style. Through the years, I even made many of the dishes I remember my mother having made: the brisket, the strudel, the knishes, the blintzes, the stuffed cabbage. Each one was homage to my mom.
A few months ago, I was looking for linen dish towels (I still love the decor of the kitchen, if not the actual cooking) online, and I came across a woman who made dish towels from family members’ old handwritten recipes. Her Etsy store site said to send her the recipes, and she would screen them onto the towels.
I made a mad dash for the attic, and I found the carton that contained my mother’s cookbooks. The handwritten recipes were gone. I searched the carton, taking every item out. No recipes. I looked through all of my own recipe books, through other cartons, through my file cabinet. No recipes. I told myself that since my mother probably never even used the recipes, it didn’t matter. But I knew it did.
I decided to go through the original carton one last time. I didn’t find the recipes but I did find part of an old spiral notebook, minus front and back covers. I hadn’t seen it since my mother died. It was her handwritten catering menus. I remember sitting with her as she wrote these out, being fascinated by the names of all of the exotic hors d’oeuvres and desserts that danced across those pages. I remember discussing prices with her. I am, by nature, a business person. And the business side of catering always appealed to me more than the actual cooking. A folded page inside was typed on onion skin paper. I was the one who did the typing.
I emailed four of the pages to the woman who made the towels, and a couple of weeks of communication began. Then, one day, the towels arrived. All are simple and white, with no decoration. Three display my mother’s handwriting. The fourth is typed.
I already use my mother’s old metal measuring spoons and her Pyrex measuring cups. I keep an old teapot on display that we had at home. So my mother has maintained a presence in my kitchen all along. But these towels are something else. These towels bring my mom into my kitchen in a way the other items do not. They remind me not only of what a gifted cook she was, but of the hours that she spent creating the business that would bring such joy to others. I see her seated at the kitchen table, writing. I am next to her, watching, asking questions, and giving opinions about menu layout and pricing.
I have not been given the cooking abilities that my mother had. But I will always be grateful that I am able to express with words what my mother did so easily with ingredients. Both food and words are powerful. They each have the ability to nourish the soul.
georgettesullins
May 19, 2014
I love, love this, Renee. Who would have thought, and you’ve told it so well here, that kitchen towels would serve as huge blankets of love embracing memories of your mother? Very nice piece of writing.
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 20, 2014
Thanks, Georgette. I do love those towels!
Valentine Logar
May 19, 2014
Loved this story, on my way.
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 20, 2014
Thanks, Valentine!
btg5885
May 19, 2014
This is great. I love your closing paragraph, especially. There is a lot of love in cooking and sharing. When we have had house guests, it is amazing how different the visit is when you allow them to help cook or prepare. Conversations abound.
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 20, 2014
Thanks, btg. And I love that have your house guests help cook or prepare. I imagine that communal cooking was what brought people together throughout prehistory.
Susan in TX
May 19, 2014
Beautiful. High-quality comment on its way.
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 20, 2014
Thanks, Susan!
wordsfromanneli
May 19, 2014
Beautifully told. I could relate to this story as my mother cooked the same way.
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 20, 2014
Thanks, Anneli. Did your mother refuse your (weakly offered) help, like mine did?
wordsfromanneli
May 20, 2014
Actually, she was the opposite. I had to get in there and help, but I could relate to the lack of recipes. I asked her once to write down how she made her potato dumplings, and she tried, but the measures were all a bit vague. A couple of scoops of potatoes, a scoop of flour, more if it’s too wet, a bit of salt. It was all by “what feels right.” I still can’t make them the way she did.
Susan in TX
May 20, 2014
That reminds me of my grandmother. When I was barely a bride–we’re talking a looong time ago–I asked her for the recipe for her strawberry preserves because they were the best. I still have it. On the back of an envelope she wrote “strawberries and enough sugar.” Still makes me smile.
wordsfromanneli
May 20, 2014
😉
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 21, 2014
Makes me smile, also.
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 21, 2014
My mom said exactly the same thing. She’d say “a little salt/sugar/oil/whatever” and I’d ask “but how much?” and she’d always respond with “You know, a little.” Now Husband cooks exactly the same way. I bought a cute salt cellar to put near the stove so the salt could be easily measured and he just looked at it and said, “I just need a shaker.” I’ve never seen the man use a recipe or measure anything. he’s a great cook.
Sunshinebright
May 19, 2014
Loved your Mom story. My Mom was also a good cook – she cooked only what my father liked, but her dishes were very tasty, and we sure didn’t starve. Not a caterer as your Mom was, but she enjoyed her cooking and her baking. She was, I think, a better baker than cook. Your story brought back some memories and I thank you for that. 🙂
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 20, 2014
Thanks, Sunshine. If my piece had you recall your mom’s cooking, I’m thrilled.
Elyse
May 19, 2014
Tears are welling up for your mom and mine.. I’m off to vote for you all!
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 20, 2014
Thanks so much Elyse!
Elyse
May 20, 2014
Oops. I was on my iPad and couldn’t. Navigate. I’ll go back tonight. Thanks for the reminder!
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 21, 2014
Many thanks!
Connie
May 19, 2014
Renee, what a beautiful tribute to your Mom. As you are using her measuring cup and spoons, I am using her baking sheets, and up until last year when it broke, her Mix-master. I think of her every time I use them.
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 20, 2014
I love hearing that. Ah, the Mix-master. I remember that so well.
chlost
May 19, 2014
What a unique way to bring your mom into your kitchen. That woman on Etsy had a great idea. I am imagining that she had found a relative’s recipes stashed away somewhere as well. My mom never cooked. My grandmother did, though, and I have several of her recipes. I may have to consider those towels.
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 20, 2014
Do it! Every time I walk by one of the towels, I smile.
Eileen Adickes
May 20, 2014
Thank you! This was wonderful and makes me feel better about the fact that I can write but can’t make a pie crust to save my soul. Mom never taught me and since my husband eschews all sweets it’s probably OK.
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 20, 2014
I’ve made my own crust and it’s really good. But the big secret is that Pillsbury pie crust (in the refrigerated section) is so good that people assume it’s home made.
Bruce Thiesen
May 20, 2014
lovely
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 20, 2014
Thanks, Bruce.
Retirementallychallenged.com
May 20, 2014
Love this! I’m off to vote and leave a more complete comment on the Midlife Collage site!
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 20, 2014
Thanks!
divorce1943
May 20, 2014
This column brought back fond memories – but sad that my mom is no longer with us. My mom was noted to make a wicked potato kugel. We would die for it! We have all tried to make the kugel the way she did, but alas, it was never quite the way she did it. We used to say it was ‘because she grated the potatoes by hand and some of the skin from her knuckles added that extra flavor’ When she died, we served potato kugel at the shiva.
Job well done. Now I will vote!
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 21, 2014
Hilarious comment about the skin in the potato kugel and I LOVE that you served it at the shiva. What a loving tribute to her. I’ve made all of my mom’s world class dishes, although the recipes were from books I found, since she didn’t use recipes. The first time I made strudel (hers was legendary) I tried to roll it out the way she did (paper thin). A sheet of mine was 1/4 inch thick. After that, I used filo. My mom would have been horrified.
Susan in TX
May 20, 2014
I am trying to Like your story on the Midlife Collage facebook page, but I can’t see it there. I see three of the five, but that’s all. Any suggestions?
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 21, 2014
Go onto the actual site, midlifecollage.com. All five entries will appear. Thanks!
Paula Karlberg
May 21, 2014
Boy, but I can relate to your beautifully written tribute to your mom. I still miss her fried chicken and potato salad. She stood with me a number of times as I carefully followed instructions, but no matter how many times I repeat those instructions, the chicken and potato salad never quite reach her perfection. There are so many things I miss about my mom now that I wish I had known I’d miss….
Life in the Boomer Lane
May 22, 2014
That last sentence of your comment gave me chills. My mom died when I was 29, and that’s exactly how I feel. I also have about 1000 questions I want to ask her, and many have nothing to do with cooking.
Anonymous
July 15, 2016
rg